VENICE
The first time I visited Venice I was about twelve years old. One of my favorite memories of that trip was a Vaporetto ride with my family on our way to Burano. Back then you could visit Venice in the summer and still find a seat on a Vaporetto.
Due to our boredom, my sister and I decided to yank on both sides of my father’s scraggly beard. As he tried to fight both myself and my sister off of him, a Venetian woman sitting next to us laughed, pointed to my sister and I, and called us “Calamari!”
Venice is the woman too beautiful for her own good. For years she has attracted tourists of all stripes and in the age of cheap flights and mass tourism she is being pushed to her limits.
These days, many locals themselves are displeased by the strained infrastructure and many now doubt the purported economic value of this volume of tourism on such a small city. But if you pay attention you can still find locals like the woman on the Vaporetto. The locals who still find some pleasure and amusement in the silly tourists. It seems that if you just act polite and respectful, you won't have a problem. On our recent visit, I was also impressed by the fact that most Venetians spoke perfect English and if not English, their Spanish was excellent as well.
And still the city’s magnificence shines through. The best way to see the city is early morning, before the throngs have settled in for the kill. Take a stroll, even around Piazza San Marco in July, at 6 am and you can still have her almost all to yourself.
ISTANBUL
One morning on my first visit to Istanbul I visitted the rooftop of the Büyük Valide Han, an ancient warehouse located in the grand bazaar. I had heard of the view from the rooftop of the building and arrived at the warehouse around 5:45 a.m. thanks to the help of some friendly merchants and Google maps.
The warehouse is old, dilapidated and technically not open to the public. The interior of the warehouse, especially pre-dawn, feels quite spooky in it's decrepit condition. Many of the rooms and offices are now used as studios, kitchens and, I suspect, homes for artists. Berenice was not amused by the dank dark feel of the interior and asked why I had brought her to a dungeon for the morning. As we explored the corridors of the warehouse, we eventually found the door leading to the roof which was, of course, locked. Luckily, we found a local artist in the hall who had access to the key to the roof. We paid him approximately USD $3.00 in lira and he led us through the door to the rooftop. We took a series of photos and enjoyed one of the best sunrises of my life.
Upon leaving the warehouse rooftop, about two hours later, our friend who had opened the door to the roof now invited us to his kitchen in the warehouse where he prepared some lovely Turkish tea. We even had a conversation using his English to Turkish translating app. I offered him some additional money as a tip or perhaps for the tea but he refused, insisting he was simply welcoming us to his city as our friend. I thanked him using my extremely awkward token Turkish and we all had a good laugh at how dumb I sounded. Mornings like these are why I get out of bed.
Istanbul is a city filled with surprises. I quickly discovered that my imagination of what I might find here was all wrong. I had pictured a city of smooth talking yet aggressive salesmen packed into colorful bazaars such as Marrakech. Soldiers patrolling every street. Zero regard for personal space.
Although there are bazaars and salesmen, the rest was pure fantasy. The city has a great blend of European and Islamic/Turkish culture. There is a lack of aggression in the salesmen and the cutthroat bargaining (found in other nearby countries) was happily dialed down. Friendly people, beautiful architecture and a rich history made this city a favorite.
I could spend days here eating kebabs, drinking tea, and exploring the inside of centuries old mosques and churches. The skyline of this city is absolutely extraordinary and unlike any place I have yet been. Wandering on rooftops in the bazaar at dawn has to be one of my favorite experiences traveling that I have ever had.
The wondrous thing I find about our world is the incredible amount of informational distortion. As an American I've gotten used to hearing about all the dangers outside of the USA. "Watch out for pickpockets in Europe!" Or "be careful of Latin America, there are riots!" My personal favorite is the panicked look most Americans get when they hear you're going to an Islamic country. Since they haven't been to an Islamic country they don't really have any advice on how to "avoid terrorists" so they generally don't know quite what to say. They are convinced, however, that a place like Istanbul must be incredibly dangerous and immediately imagine a war zone. Unfortunately we get these ideas from the news and assumptions that come with it. I never once felt endangered anywhere in Turkey. I saw no sign of the wildly hyped government instability and saw not a single soldier or jihadist. I enjoyed the tulips, my pizza, sticky ice cream and hookah in the Blue Mosque district. I saw the trendy young locals in Uskudar. I drank tea and coffee with a friendly local artist I met in the grand bazaar. Ate tiramisu on a roof top cafe in Kadikoy. I didn't see anyone who looked scary or scared. Just another place victimized by fear mongering.
PARIS
One afternoon on my first visit to Paris, I was walking with my father in the Ile Saint-Louis. We were going to have a quick lunch at a nearby tourist trap which overlooks the Notre Dame. Before entering the restaurant I had been speaking Spanish and, being quite tired from jet lag, I accidentally began speaking to the waiter in Spanish. He spoke to me in French which I can't speak. We both then switched to English and had a laugh. I enjoyed a fantastic duck breast while the waiter identified different items in Spanish with an over the top Spanish accent. Silly Frenchie.
This memory has stuck with me because this was by far the friendliest waiter I ever met in Paris. It was a great, although brief, opportunity to dispel that notion of Parisians being cold and indifferent towards tourists.
Paris is a city that is both modern yet ancient with a perfect juxtaposition of art, culture and architecture. The beauty of the gardens of the Rodin as the magnificent Les Invalides dome looms in the background, the grand view of the Louvre from the top of the Musee D'Orsay, the ubiquitous Tour D'Eiffel and of course that ever present beauty which started it all: the winding Seine. The city could not have been laid out better and it is a feast for the eyes. The city is a wash with history too deep to ever truly penetrate.
I have a difficult time finding any aesthetic fault with the city, though it's all in the eye of the beholder I suppose. The Parisian way of life is not elaborate and sophisticated as the pervasive French mystique may lead some to believe. In fact it is far more simple in many ways than the typical American lifestyle. A true Parisian does not drive. Anyone who has tried driving in the city center can quickly see why. A true Parisian really does carry around a fresh loaf of bread in there bag or backpack on the metro.
Parisian's are not paricularly smug or arrogant (atleast not anymore smug than your stereotypical New Yorker). The difference between the Parisian and the New Yorker is that the Parisian lives in a glorious city filled with rich history, food, culture and architecture where as the New Yorker misguidedly believes the same.
The city's beauty is superbly followed up by the city's exquisite food. Again the Parisians' have it nailed. For some obvious classics, order duck (canard), rabbit (lapin), steak (boeuf) and of course escargot. For the vegetarians, you have the option of gorging at some of the most marvelous patisseries and boulangeries in the world. Vegans, you're on your own. Although like much of Europe I would not expect prompt service wherever you choose to dine (though I suppose it is the counter weight for the non existent European tipping system). In one of your outdoor/awning coffee sittings, notice the Parisian's impeccable sense of conservative style as they pass on the street.
Some things to be ready for:
1. By most U.S. standards the city is rife with highly agressive panhandler's and beggars. When you enter a highly toursited area just be aware of people standing around waiting for one of the multitude of tourists to approach. This could happen in mnay places but on my last visit the stairs to the Sacre Couer and the walk to the Moulin Rouge were the worst. Usually you can see them coming so just ignore and keep walking.
2. If you read my city review post above then you know: DON'T RENT A CAR to get around in the city center. For destinations far outside of the ring highway fo the Peripherique, then consider renting a car. Taking an hour to get to a patisserie which I could've walked to in ten minutes is infuriating. You'll have a far easier time getting around on the Metro. It may be intimidating but it will take you all of a minute to master the mapping and method of transit.
3. Restauarant service is lackluster at most establishments. This is not a uniquely French issue but generally European. The profit motive is weaker in Europe. Restaurants are not in a hurry to get you fed, get your money or get you out of their restaurant to make room for other customers. c'est la vie. Perhaps it's better this way? Not so much to me.
4. A city this geographically small with one of the highest tourist counts ever is going to lead to lines and crowds. Nothing you can do but accept. If you're from a small town or city this may surprise you but this is the case in most major cities int he world. Get used to it.
5. This city is not the best destination for nature lovers, those looking for undistubred ancient ruins or those looking for that beach resort getaway. If those are the kind of experiences you're looking for you've come to the wrong city.
6. This city is unlike ANY American city. Paris offers the best of many worlds in Western Europe but it is no ultra modern city of tomorrow. It does not offer grand skyscrapers, all night bowling and hot dogs on every corner.
7. French people speak far more English than American's speak French. Don't expect people to cater to you because you only speak English. Imagine if once or twice a day a French person came into your place of employment and got annoyed you weren't fluent in French. Your choices are basically to learn French (would you really though?) or just say "I don't speak French" and go back to work. Maybe this explains a little of the perceived rudeness? Maybe not. The French were also the top European power for several centuries until Napoleon went and mucked it all up, so they're understandably a tad sore about everyone speaking the language of their once rivals, England.
- Quick Tips
1. Invest in a Paris Museum Pass if you are planning on visiting museums and certain churches. It probably won't save you any money but it will definitely save you a lot of time standing in the ticket line (which is generally huge in the wrong season). You can usually go right to the entrance of most attractions coveredin the Paris Pass. All attractions covered in the Paris Museum Pass sell Paris Museum Passes. Obtain one at the first attraction you go to where they are sold. A hyperlink to the Paris Pass website is found right here www.parispass.com/paris-attractions/index.html.
2. If you are not on a very tight budget, consider buying Metro pass tickets. This will, in all likelihood, not save you a penny. It may in fact cost twice as much as what you would pay in Metro ticket fares around the city. Consider though that it will be a time saver in that you will get from one place to another much more rapidly by not waiting in any possible Metro ticket lines.
3. Stay in the first, second, third or fourth arrondissement for quick transit to major tour sights as many are in those neighborhoods. The Left and Right bank of the Seine are no longer really that different in terms of accomodations. If you do stay further out towards the perimeter of the city it really doesn't matter but in order to do more sightseeing it may be wise to take the Metro every morning into the city to save time.
4. Learn some token French. It's a show of good faith and a little respect for the French people which could go a long way. Of course it is definiely not required.
5. Be on the lookout for panhandlers and simply avoid the hustle. Not dangerous but highly obnoxious compared to the U.S.
- Itinerary Advice
The absolute must-do items (provided you are not a diehard fan of something very specific) are:
1. Towers of Notre Dame - go first thing in the morning to get to the front of the towers' line. Spectacular views of the heart of Paris and the epicenter of the nation of France.
2. Paris Catacombs - get there by or before 9:15 a.m. in non-peak tourist season (peak time being generally June, July and August) but likely earlier during those times. The line for this is long as the amount of people allowed is limited so early arrival is essential. First groups enter at 10 a.m. I have been to a number of other catacombs but this was excellent. It is more than just seeing bones but understandning the construction and a fundamental element of the city as well as some of the commoners who built it. If bones, skull and "sacreligious" treatment of skeletons upsets you than this isn't your place (but you should really consider sacking up if that is the case).
3. Jardin Du Luxembourg - grab a coffee and pastry at any time of day and come here to people watch and enjoy the beautiful grounds.
4. Musee Rodin - the beautiful grounds surrounding this museum are one of the loveliest in the city. Even if you aren't a fan of Rodin's castings found all over both the garden and the museum main building, you will still be able to appreciate an espresso and a croque monsieur.
5. Seine River Tour - enjoy a tour down the river that has been the life blood of the city since Roman times. Bridges (including my personal favorite the Pont Neuf) are easy to appreciate as well as many of Paris' iconic buildings. Companies and prices vary but almost all the main sights seen are the same.
6. Eiffel Tower - love it or hate it the Eiffel Tower should atleast be approached if not climbed to atleast understand it's iconic and divisive powers. If you are physically able, I would walk up the tower before taking the last elevator to the summit. Not only is this cheaper but it is also quicker because you are skipping the line. Views from the top are rewarding but if you cannot walk up the tower and the line for the elevators in excess of an hour than it is not something you'll die missing.
The above items are a personal preference but are quite generally enjoyed by many. The above items could EASILY and affordably be accomplished in a day. If you have more time then that (which I really hope you do) build an itinerary based on your own interests. For other sights and suggestions the city offers more options than I want to list. Other favorites of mine were the Musee D'Orsay (art museum formerly a train station), the Montmartre cemetery (I enjoy interesting cemeteries for some dark reason) and St. Dennis Basilica (dead royalty is very appealing to me). The places I have listed in my city review and my suggested itinerary are a small portion of the locations I visitted but these are my personal favorites so I only felt like writing about them as I enjoyed them so much. My suggestion is to do your own research into the history of the city or things you personally enjoy and build an itinerary based on that.